Anthony Bourdain is an incredible chef and food philosopher. He has a strong opinion on what is worth eating at a restaurant, and his clearest rule (he explained in our first feast) is that if a restaurant enjoys both steak and sushi, it is also considered a red flag. For Bourden, this menu suggests that the restaurant is trying to please everyone and may not do well. Steak and sushi are fundamentally different dishes, each requiring specific skills, tools and sourcing.
One is all about fire, seasoning and grilling, while the other highlights precision, raw freshness, and keeps it simple in terms of flavor. When both of them are listed on the menu, Bourden sees it as a sign that the kitchen has no clear identity. This is a fun option because we usually like to think of versatility as a good thing. Well, that's not the case in Bourden's eyes, should we question his cooking ribs?
It seems snobbish, but Bourdan looks at the topic through a perspective of authenticity and concentration. He believes that delicious food comes from deep understanding and repetition. Chefs who master Nigiri's art shouldn't grill juicy ribeyes either, just as steakhouses shouldn't dabble in sashimi or sushi. According to Bourdain, menus that try to do everything usually end up not doing well.
Read more: According to the chef, you should always skip these appetizers.
The issue of “everyone” mentality
A split image with steak on one side and sushi on the other – simple image and south_agency/getty & notefined
Anthony Bourdain believes that the “Jack of-All-Trades” mentality destroys the craft needed for real cooking. He is not against variety shows because he actually loves global street food, but he is very wary of any restaurant that has no clear point of view. He believes that if you are going out for a meal, the goal should be to experience the chef’s expertise and soul through food, rather than selecting all possible boxes on the crowd menu.
Of course, Bourden is not so rigid that he doesn't understand that there are exceptions. He didn’t just pound the buffet restaurant, nor did he call each combination menu a disaster. In cities like Las Vegas, steak and sushi can be served surprisingly, sometimes surprisingly, due to scale, specialization and demand. These are not restaurants that blend chefs’ horizons; they offer diversity and value. But a mid-range restaurant trying to pull off surfing and Uramaki Nights might be harder to sell, and Bourden simply doesn’t trust it.
His advice is not about keeping the gate – more about real food. The sushi chef spent years perfecting the rice, knife skills and sourcing. Steakhouses enhance flavor through fire and technology, always aiming to achieve perfect staleness and performance. From Bourdan's perspective, both justices seem to require more ambition…it requires two completely separate kitchens. So the next time you find wagyu and spicy tuna rolls side by side on the menu, keep in mind Bourden’s advice: If they can’t choose their own great performance, then they may not be a good thing.
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